This batch made by maestro palenquero candido garcia cruz tells a story of the ever-evolving dynamics of production, experimentation, and the fluidity of tradition in the face of constant change.
The agave tequilana var. Weber used in this production come from stock that was originally acquired in the mid 1990s through local mezcalero associations, in the context of increased contact with middle men and representatives of the tequila industry on both a regional and nationwide level. Despite existing regulations around the use of agave from outside the territories established in the denomination of origin of tequila, oaxaca became a source of raw material in times of agave shortages, spurring the movement of clones to oaxaca, where they could be grown cheaper and brought back to the industrial factories of jalisco. While the majority of these crops were sold back to jalisco, local producers kept some for themselves after quickly taking note of the sweet flavor of the cooked agave and the high yields of the starch-rich blue weber, referred to in logoche as tequilana, tequilera, tequilero, or azul. These 220 liters were some of the last to ever be made by candido with the use of an ox-drawn stone wheel, in march 2013. For more information: www. Netaspirits. Com | @netaspirits neta works closely with several small, family producers and a cooperative of twelve palenqueros from the southern valleys and hills of miahuatlan, oaxaca. Situated at the southern tip of the central valleys and the foot of the sierra madre del sur mountains, the area is renowned for the strong character of its people, its diverse landscapes, and the rich agricultural and culinary traditions that have been maintained throughout generations. As such, the region has preserved its reputation for producing some of the finest mezcales and agave spirits anywhere in mexico. The recipes and knowledge have been passed down and shared through family and community ties. Some mezcaleros follow their grandfathers traditions to the letter, while others experiment to carefully fine-tune the laborious process in accordance with their own tastes, observations, and relationships with the natural world. No two productions can ever be exactly the same as environmental conditions, water, natural yeasts, and soil types all contribute to their nuances just as much as the touch of their maker.